Friday, September 10, 2010

ARRIVAL...

We are here!!! And yes! camel(s) have been sighted but not ridden - yet. Since we arrived during the Muslim holy month of Ramadan, things are not like they are during the rest of the year so we probably should wait for good descriptions of regular life but, RAMADAN....

Morocco is HOT during this time of year. During Ramadan, people fast during the daylight hours and this includes not drinking - anything- even water. One can hide a bottle of water in a bag and take occasional nips on the sly but one does not want to be offensive in the first week of arrival. Possibly a (certain but remaining nameless)new arrival may become seriously dehydrated and has to stop the bus to be sick on the side of the road BUT never drink in public during Ramadan ...

Since people are fasting all day, the nights are crazy and very fun. The fast is broken by f'tour (breakfast) when the imam sings out the official announcement in the evening. The time changes each night because it depends on the phases of the moon. When we arrived, f'tour started at a little after 7 and has been a little earlier each day. Everybody races (literally) home to be sitting at the table and taking the first bite (a date - there are piles of them at the markets) with everybody else in the city as the imam calls. The hour when everybody is supposed to be home and eating dinner is the most dangerous time to be out on the streets - think 2 am in Compton, California....
The eating routine (and therefore the staying up routine) follows a 'normal' day with tea time somewhere around 9 and 'lunch' at midnight. 'Dinner' is at 3:30 in the morning when the imam calls for the last time and all the shops roll down their metal doors at the same time. THEN the general public goes to bed. Most people sleep in but alot don't because they have jobs that require interface with the West so they get up and have to be to work at 9 or 10 in the morning. Believe it or not, most Moroccan schools have regular hours during Ramadan.

A few nights ago was the 'night of power'. Ideally, an individual can pray all night and garner the same merit as if he had prayed for 1000 months. I'm sure some do this but practically, people dress up (especially young children) in outfits tailored specially for the occasion and walk the main street with their famlies, taking pictures. It is very festive with vendors selling balloons and snacks. All the restraunts are open and you can take a ride in fancy horse-drawn carts.

Pictures will be arriving soon. =)





There is soooo much to explain and share - come visit!!!!!

9 comments:

  1. How exciting! I can't wait to visit - but, by then, it will be back to a boring (non Ramadan) existence!

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  2. I know! Ramadan is exciting - no more wandering the streets until 1 or 2 in the morning...

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  3. You don't have to observe Ramadan, do you?

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  4. No - we don't have to because we are not Muslim BUT it is really rude (as in extremely) to eat and drink in public during Ramadan. It would be similar to laughing out loud at someone's funeral. Or working hard out in the hot sun all day with someone and then drinking an ice cold beer in front of them without sharing... I just wanted to see what it was like. I managed for almost a week and then got pretty sick (partially from dehydration) so ate crackers and drank water/fruit juice during the day. Ramadan is over now - people are in the cafes, drinking little glasses of cafe noir and visiting.

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  5. cool mom! but stressful I imagine.

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  6. A couple more Ramadans and you will be a cool size three. Better be careful of the local customs. Haha

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  7. Hi Jennifer - Bobbie McConkey here. I am so proud of you. You are amazing and fearless!! Kristi Fisher and I were just talking about you this afternoon.

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  8. Not to worry about the size three. The bread here is delicious and we eat at least two loaves a day. Plus OMG! the pastries! Beautiful and bursting with calories.... =)

    I'm not really amazing and definately NOT fearless but I have friends who think I am so there is all this pressure to keep up appearances...

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  9. And what absolutely wonderful thing did you do today. Almond butter with the second loaf of bread. Date butter with first?
    Bobbie McConkey
    :-)

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